"My journey of showing people
how to eat better (and enjoy it) has helped me to understand that spotlighting what drives others to produce great products… sharing their insights and talents… is a gift to self." ~ Laura Pensiero |
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Easy, Relaxed Cooking During Those Lazy-Hazy-Crazy Days of Summer
August 2024
Find Laura's delicious recipes at the end of this article.
The heat of August marks the point in summer when the spectrum of healthy, farm fresh ingredients are at full peak. There is no better time of year to eat light, water-filled fruits and vegetables and to simplify cooking techniques. After all, you want to be outside enjoying these months not in an overheated kitchen.
That said, I’m sure the lyricist who wrote “Those Lazy-Hazy-Crazy Days of Summer” (popularized by Nat King Cole in the early 1960s) never owned a restaurant. My summer passes like a sprint from Memorial Day weekend to Labor Day. The trattoria is open six days a week for lunch and dinner as well as brunch on Sundays. To accommodate diners milling through Rhinebeck who eat at all different times, we do not close between meals. And while the days disappear in a haze of activity, our focus remains on eating locally, seasonally, and with great flavor. Gardening used to be one of my passions. After more than two decades on the dining room floor of my restaurant, I now need to limit the use of my back and knees to growing herbs and flowers — age catches all of us. Still, having an herb garden outside your kitchen door sure makes impromptu summer cooking easier and tastier. My favorite home-grown herb is flat-leaf parsley. It has an amazing full sweet flavor, and I’ve never met its peer in the supermarket. And fresh basil takes the five-minute caprese salad of local tomatoes and fresh mozzarella to a whole new height. |
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Eating local now is a no-brainer. With farmers markets being chock full of options from summer’s harvest, dishes can be put together with little effort. But even accomplished cooks take summer shortcuts to help them along — perhaps buying salads, sides and pies, while focusing on the main course with grill-ready, marinated chicken, pork, or beef. Or vice versa, put the effort into the accompaniments and purchase the main course. At any rate, summer isn’t the time for showing off or fussiness.
My advice to summer cooks is keep it cool and simple. Oppressive summer heat can blunt anyone’s appetite; on some days, it needs to be cold food or no food at all. There are lots of great options to choose from: ceviche, cold salads, cold soups, shellfish platters, and antipasto platters. One of my favorite summer meals is Vitello Tonnato (poached veal loin in a tuna sauce). But I make it with a low temperature roasted pork tenderloin, cooked in advance, chilled and then thinly sliced and served with tonnato sauce, an Italian word for a tuna, lemon and caper sauce. Add some tomato bread salad with fresh parsley and perfectly ripe tomatoes or a simply dressed arugula or loose-leaf salad, and you have a meal that is simple, healthy and completely satisfying.
Grilled food also fits the description of perfect summer food. It can be served hot, cold, or at room temperature and is simple to prepare, keeping the heat out to the kitchen. A young, butterflied chicken cooks quickly grilled over high heat, yielding a moist breast and fully cooked thighs. And I often opt for that true summertime side dish — grilled vegetables liberally doused with fruity olive oil, which can be served at room temperature as a main dish as well.
These long, sunlit days are a fleeting treasure. Buon appetito!
My advice to summer cooks is keep it cool and simple. Oppressive summer heat can blunt anyone’s appetite; on some days, it needs to be cold food or no food at all. There are lots of great options to choose from: ceviche, cold salads, cold soups, shellfish platters, and antipasto platters. One of my favorite summer meals is Vitello Tonnato (poached veal loin in a tuna sauce). But I make it with a low temperature roasted pork tenderloin, cooked in advance, chilled and then thinly sliced and served with tonnato sauce, an Italian word for a tuna, lemon and caper sauce. Add some tomato bread salad with fresh parsley and perfectly ripe tomatoes or a simply dressed arugula or loose-leaf salad, and you have a meal that is simple, healthy and completely satisfying.
Grilled food also fits the description of perfect summer food. It can be served hot, cold, or at room temperature and is simple to prepare, keeping the heat out to the kitchen. A young, butterflied chicken cooks quickly grilled over high heat, yielding a moist breast and fully cooked thighs. And I often opt for that true summertime side dish — grilled vegetables liberally doused with fruity olive oil, which can be served at room temperature as a main dish as well.
These long, sunlit days are a fleeting treasure. Buon appetito!
BERRIES In summer, the harvest starts with strawberries and then evolves to blackberries, blueberries, raspberries, and black currants. They’re all delicious and worthy of eating just as they are. Varieties: Strawberries: Early summer berries. Blackberries: Ripen as summer progresses. Blueberries: Available mid to late summer. Raspberries: Come into season later in summer. Black Currants: Available in mid to late summer, known for their deep color and tart flavor. CORN (Fresh) Varieties (Three predominant types): Sweet Corn: For your classic summertime corn on the cob and dishes “off the cob." Dent Corn: Grown primarily for livestock feed, but also for polenta, hominy, and masa. Flint Corn: Used for some foods like popcorn, but usually dried and used for decoration. CUCUMBERS Botanically similar to watermelons, both are in the gourd family of fruits. They have a high-water content, which makes them especially refreshing to eat during the “dog days of summer.” Varieties: Pickling Cucumbers: Squat kirbies, gherkins, and cornichons. Fresh Eating Cucumbers: Garden cucumber, long English cucumbers (with few seeds), and smaller Mediterranean and Persian varieties. EGGPLANT A fruit in the nightshade family of vegetables. Most commonly, you’ll find the deep purple globe eggplant, but there are numerous varieties. Varieties: Chinese & Japanese Eggplant: Long and narrow, perfect for cutting into little rounds before sauteing, frying, or stir frying. These eggplants have fewer seeds and are less bitter than other varieties. Graffiti Eggplant (Sicilian or Zebra Eggplant): Characterized by long strips of white and purple. These can be used interchangeably with globe eggplant but have a thin skin and cook more quickly. Indian Eggplant: Resemble large grapes with a deep purplish color, often used in curry preparations. Italian Eggplant: Similar to globe eggplant in color and shape but smaller and sweeter. Ideal for Italian dishes like eggplant caponata and parmigiana di melanzane. Rosa Bianca: This Sicilian eggplant is elegant and mellow with a lavender/rose-colored teardrop shape. It offers creamy tender “meat” and doesn’t require peeling or salting to extract bitterness. Ideal for grilling, frying, or sautéing. GREEN BEANS Also known as string beans or snap beans, these are vegetables that grow on vines during the summer into early fall. Romano beans, yellow wax beans, purple bush beans, and a whole host of rainbow-colored heirloom varieties are also included in the green bean family. Varieties: Green Beans: The classic variety. Romano Beans: Broad, flat beans. Yellow Wax Beans: Yellow-colored beans. Purple Bush Beans: Purple-colored beans that turn green when cooked. Heirloom Varieties: A range of rainbow-colored beans. MELONS The quintessential summer fruit, melons offer refreshing sweetness and hydration. From juicy watermelons to fragrant cantaloupes and honeydews, melons are a staple at farmers markets and picnic tables during the hottest months of the year. Varieties: Watermelon: The most popular summer melon, known for its bright red flesh and high-water content. Cantaloupe: Orange-fleshed and aromatic, perfect for slicing and eating fresh. Honeydew: Pale green flesh with a smooth texture, often sweeter than cantaloupe. Galia: A cross between cantaloupe and honeydew, with green flesh and a sweet, tropical flavor. Canary Melon: Bright yellow skin with pale, sweet flesh, excellent for fresh eating or salads. Crenshaw Melon: A hybrid of cantaloupe and casaba, with sweet, spicy flesh. PEPPERS These come in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and flavors, including sweet and hot types. They add vibrant color and unique taste to dishes, making food more exciting. Varieties: Sweet Peppers: Green, yellow, red, and brown bell peppers. Hot Peppers: Jalapeños, Italian frying peppers, Anaheim chilies, habañeros, scotch bonnets, poblanos, Thai green chilies, cayenne peppers, banana peppers, Hungarian wax peppers, and family-grown special chilies. TOMATOES Tomatoes are available in numerous colors and shapes. Varieties: Grape Tomatoes: Small and sweet. Heirlooms: Deeply creased, available in a variety of colors, and open-pollinated. Beefsteaks: Heavy, round, and blood-red. Italian Varieties: Pear-shaped, ideal for canning and sauces. Hybrid Tomatoes: Result from crossbreeding and may not produce identical seedlings if open-pollinated. STONE FRUITS Summertime stone fruits are at their peak right now, bringing vibrant colors and sweet, juicy flavors to our tables. These fruits are a highlight of the season, irresistible at farmers markets and perfect for a variety of dishes. Despite their nutritional benefits, the true allure of stone fruits lies in their incredible taste. It’s hard to stop eating a perfectly ripe plum or peach once you get started. Enjoy them while they’re in season! Varieties: Peaches: Sweet and juicy, often used in salads, cobblers, compotes, tarts, pies, and summer drinks like sangrias or Prosecco. Plums: Versatile and flavorful, enjoyed fresh or dried as prunes. Nectarines: Similar to peaches but with smooth skin. Apricots: Smaller and slightly tarter, perfect for snacking or cooking. SUMMER SQUASH Botanically related to cucumbers and watermelons, the entire vegetable is edible, even the flowers, which are a summer treat in Italian cuisine. Varieties: Yellow Crooknecks: Classic summer squash with a curved neck. Zucchini: Prolific producers, great for various dishes. Chayote: Light-green squash with a lengthwise crease, also known as mirliton. Pattypan Squash: Small, round, and scalloped, perfect for stuffing. |
Laura's Recipes:
POBLANO CREAMED CORN GRATIN
This dish is amazing at the peak of summer's corn harvest right through to Thanksgiving. Enjoy it with just about anything off the grill as well as roasts and poultry.
Directions: Melt the butter with the olive in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the poblanos, shallots, and garlic and cook, stirring, until the onion softens, 3 or 4 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, stir in the kernels, two tablespoons of the parsley, thyme, and cayenne. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing or stirring often, until the kernels are cooked and lightly brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the white wine and sugar, if using, and cook until the liquid has almost completely evaporated. Stir in the flour-water mixture, then whisk in the milk or half-and-half. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook, stirring, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in the herbs. Remove from the heat and stir in the soft cheese and remaining parsley. Transfer to a medium-sized casserole and sprinkle the top with the Parmesan. Turn the oven on to broil and place the dish about 4 inches below the broiler. Broil just until the cheese is bubbling and golden brown. Sprinkle the remaining fresh parsley over the top and serve immediately. |
PASTA with NO-COOK TOMATO SAUCE
This raw tomato sauce takes just 10 minutes of prep, just long enough to cook pasta! If you have the time to make the sauce in advance, let it “rest” 30 minutes to blend flavors.
Fresh garden or famers market tomatoes are the key to success, as the juice from these tomatoes IS the base of the sauce—just a few ingredients, and you’re all set. To increase protein, grilled chicken, shrimp, or even good quality canned tuna will work well with this quick garden pasta dish. Video Credit: Laura Pensiero
Ingredients: (Makes 4 to 6 servings)
1 pound dry pasta 3 medium garden or local farmers market tomatoes, roughly chopped ½ cup chopped fresh basil and Italian Parsley 2 minced garlic cloves 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese Directions: Crush the tomatoes between your fingers extracting out all the pulp and juice. Stir in the herbs, garlic, and olive oil. Season with a generous pinch of kosher salt and black pepper. Mix well and set the sauce aside for 30 minutes or so. Cook the pasta of your choice according to package directions until al dente. Stir the Parmesan into the sauce, strain the pasta, and toss with the sauce. Serve immediately, while the pasta is warm. Pro tip: Fresh, uncooked tomato sauce (without the Parmesan) can be stored, refrigerated in a tightly closed Mason jar for 2 to 3 days. Add a thin layer of extra-virgin olive oil to the top of the tomato sauce. The olive oil will harden, acting as a seal for the sauce. Allow the leftover sauce to return to room temperature before serving. |
Laura Pensiero is Sanctuary's nutrition columnist and the founder, chef/owner and creative force behind Gigi Hudson Valley (Gigi Trattoria and Gigi Catering). She is the author of Hudson Valley Mediterranean and co-author of The Strang Cancer Prevention Center Cookbook. Find out more about Laura by reading her interview with Sanctuary HERE.
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