Travel Journal
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CHARLESTOWN, RHODE ISLAND: A Carousel of the Senses
November 2025
By Sandra Bertrand
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Sometimes a late summer getaway doesn’t have to have an agenda. When my partner, Joanne, and I and our two New York City buddies Mary and Meryl boarded the Acela train at Penn Station for Providence heading for Cappy’s Cottage on Rhode Island’s southern coastline, we had few expectations. The three R’s maybe — Rest, Relaxation, Reading…and a lobster roll or two for good measure. But be forewarned: the agenda will find you.
Penny and Dean, our Airbnb hosts, were quick to greet us once we’d found our way from Route 1 to their address in Charlestown. Their three-bedroom plus abode included a capacious screened-in porch, two sitting rooms, a well-stocked kitchen, and an outdoor shed filled with enough game options to put four aging but willing adults in excellent spirits. After choosing our sleeping quarters — I opted for one of the king-sized versions with a Beluga whale print over the bedstead — we quickly agreed upon the Matunuck Oyster Bar in nearby Wakefield. The restaurant’s oversized tent was packed to the gills by locals and a good portion of Rhode Island’s hungry diners. This long-established hotspot for seafood had recently suffered a devasting fire but has been quick to recover with alfresco dining. A breeze off the Matunuck Marina’s salt pond barely fluttered our canvas tent walls with a noise level agreeable enough, save for a few twangy piped in tunes that came with the territory. But no complaints. With no reservations, we were ushered to bar seating where the oyster shucking was well underway. Did I say my partner Joanne was a culinary expert on the bivalves? If Mary wasn’t game for the raw bar offerings, Meryl was a willing participant, and the three of us shared a dozen perfectly chilled samplers. If memory serves, lobster rolls and New England chowder — the thicker the better for me — made the day.
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"It has been one month since we’ve been able to open our doors at our pop-up location thanks to a community of support." ~ Matunuck Oyster Bar, Instagram
Photo: Matunuck Oyster Bar |
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"Turning on Charlestown Beach Road toward home in the setting sun, we discovered Peaches, a farm stand we would return to before week’s end for homemade raspberry rhubarb pie." ~ S.B.
*According to locals, Peaches Fruit and Produce is known as a charming produce market that finds beach goers stopping on the way to and from the beach. |
There’s an old adage that one should never go grocery shopping on an empty stomach, so we saved this chore for afterwards. I’m not sure it made a difference. We still managed to fill our waiting lard with chicken, cheeses, bread, peanut butter, eggs, frozen shrimp, bacon, fresh peaches, sweet corn, and two pints of Ben and Jerry’s finest ice cream. We made a final stop at the local wine shop, of course. Turning on Charlestown Beach Road toward home in the setting sun, we discovered Peaches, a farm stand we would return to before week’s end for homemade raspberry rhubarb pie.
We would have been happy to while away our first full day, lolling about the backyard for a lazy game of corn hole, testing our prowess at pitching bean bags about, eating, napping, and planning the next day’s outing. Fate would have it otherwise, as we were informed a new pump for the resident well needed to be installed, and we would need to make arrangements off the property for the day. Necessity is the mother of invention — another adage. So, by 9:30 a.m., we were back in the car, putting our joint spirits for adventure in high gear. |
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Ninigret National Wildlife Refuge is one of five refuge complexes in the state and a walk in the woods seemed the perfect way to begin. Joanne’s binoculars at the ready, we began a slow march down an opening in the foliage labelled Foster’s Path. Invigorated by the morning air, we didn’t pay much attention to a determined looking couple who appeared ahead, fully decked out in orange vests. As they passed us, I thought they said “osprey” season until my companions informed me the word was “archery.” We soon realized we were not dressed for the occasion. (I sported a streak of orange in a multicolored cardigan but that hardly counted.) Then Mary began slapping her ankles despite the sprays of DEET she’d applied. Mosquitos? (I strongly recommend long pants and socks but that’s no guarantee of immunity.) Maybe some ancient Girl Scout fervor kept us plowing ahead for another half mile. We didn’t hear the whiz of errant arrows and didn’t spot any avian cousins, but we did chalk it up to an authentic nature walk. Later, we discovered a sign informing us that archery hunting was allowed through September and visitors should remain on the marked trails, which we had.
Our next adventure was to Kinney Azalea Gardens, a more domesticated but lovely property existing as the result of four generations of horticulturists, educators, and nature enthusiasts of the Kinney and Faella families. Lorenzo Kinney Sr., The University of Rhode Island's first botany professor, began planting conifers on his son's newly purchased land in the 1920s. Today there are over 1000 cultivars and species of rhododendrons, azaleas, trees, shrubs and wildflowers.
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An outdoor, wood sculpture exhibit by artist Shawndavid Berry did its best at competing with resident Dahlias, camera ready for our pleasure. Most intriguing was a Moon Gate circular sculpture created in 1987 for someone’s 75th birthday. The constant play of natural light on surrounding foliage created its own magic, tricking us into every nook and cranny of the property.
Pink Dahlias (Kinney Azalea Gardens)
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Shawndavid Berry's Installation "From the Ashes"
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Moon Gate (Kinney Azalea Gardens)
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A stop for lunch in Charlestown’s Breachway Grill for lobster bisque and cod tacos (a seafood theme was emerging in our dietary choices) renewed our energies. Back at Cappy’s Cottage, we equipped the car with umbrellas, beach chairs, and towels that were available for our unlimited use and headed for the local beach. After huffing and puffing our way to a quiet spot, we nodded off to surf sounds and the occasional squawk of seagulls. One memorable activity was the raising of Mary’s rainbow kite — up, up and away into the blue. Evidently kite flying can be competitive in these parts. One young woman launched a rectangular shaped contrivance, choreographing her own bikini calisthenics to the kite’s own dips and swoops.
At day’s end, the workmen finally done with their handiwork, we were credited for any inconvenience. With clean hot water assured, we settled ourselves around the outdoor firepit where Joanne started up a flicker or two with the available logs. It was an acceptable attempt, improved days later by Mary’s skills at kindling gathering. |
Joanne Relaxing at Cappy's Cottage at Sunset
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Pumpkin Display (Manfredi Farms)
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Our interest was now kindled in further exploration of our “hood.” Enroute to the historic town of Westerly, we began with a visit to Manfredi Farms. This three-generation farm promises organic, sustainable farming practices and a positive contribution to the local ecosystem. We’d barely left the parking lot when we spied rows of giant sunflowers that could be picked for a pittance. A family of fenced goats was a lovely distraction, one even leaving his favorite stump to check us out. Pumpkins were scattered willy-nilly around the farm store as well as a few proverbs for good measure. An elderly woman with a lifetime’s lines etched into her cheeks rang up our purchases, including a crate of seven or eight beefsteak tomatoes for five dollars. Who could resist a stop at the landmark Fantastic Umbrella Factory? With tourist season almost over, several of the property’s shops were closed, but I did manage to find an Indian-inspired coat sweater that could rival the contents of any East Village venue. Roaming the clamshell walkways, we discovered a rusted-out jalopy with a skeleton driver at the wheel before departing! It was time for some real history. |
Goats (Manfredi Farms)
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Jalopy with Skeleton (Fantastic Umbrella Factory)
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Westerly, founded in 1661 and once home to its own species of salmon, is situated on the eastern shore of the Pawcatuck River. Once renowned for its granite mining, it retains a sleepy New England charm. The Westerly Library and Wilcox Park Association was established in 1892 to commemorate its Civil War heroes. The Park is a 15-acre arboretum boasting majestic trees and a bit of Victorian fountain statuary to give New York City’s Central Park some competition. The adjacent library’s reading room sports deep-seated leather chairs, a stained-glass window in the alcove, and a resident fireplace. The lending library has a wall of surprising takeaways — croquet sets, knife sharpeners, and gardening tools for the citizenry in addition to its books. A bend or two farther down the road, and we fortified ourselves at Andrea’s Seafood Restaurant for more lobster rolls amidst wide windows for ocean viewing.
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Lobster Roll (Andrea's Seafood Restaurant)
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Wilcox Park Memorial Fountain
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Westerly Library Interior with Stained Glass
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To say the neighborhood of nearby Watch Hill is affluent would be an understatement. Residents have included Henry Ford (1863-1947), Standard Oil heiress and founder of the Harkness Ballet, Rebekah Harkness (1915–1982), film star Clark Gable (1901-1960), and Andrew Mellon (1855–1937), industrialist and Secretary of the Treasury. Some would say it has avoided the razzle and dazzle ostentatiousness of Newport’s wealthiest, but if writer Edith Wharton was still around, I’m sure she’d have a comment about that.
Taylor Swift House (Narragansett Beach)
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Our companions decided on a beachfront excursion to the Lighthouse that would offer hilltop views of Taylor Swift’s 17.75 million estate as well. They did manage a snapshot or two before the high tide cut their walk short. Joanne and I met them in the village a while later, where the historic Flying Horse Carousel is set. Legend has it that in 1883 a traveling carnival left it behind. It’s the oldest in the U.S., having survived devastating hurricanes and the like. The Olympia Tea Room (est. 1916) was closed, but I located a small candy shop for a bag of chocolate creams and a town bench.
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Flying Horse Carousel
Photo: Vineyard Presentation Trust |
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"We took a midday break, discovering the Ocean Mist, a loud, rollicking hangout where we feasted on garlicky steamed littleneck clams in white wine and salsa verde, served with crusty French bread." ~ S.B. |
Evenings were spent happily lolling about our adopted property, where Joanne either offered her services boiling lobsters for our consumption, (one in our party could be excused for refusing to witness the operation) or grilling steaks to a perfect medium rare. The fire pit was put to good use as was our circle of Andirondack chairs for gazing at the nightly star show. Under the canopy of our Charlestown skies, we took turns identifying a stellar grouping rarely visible from our Manhattan rooftop.
Our landlady had recommended Matunuck Beach, a few minutes’ drive from home. And requisitioning a wheel cart from the garage, we stuffed it with all the paraphernalia we’d hauled by hand days before. A serene horizon as far as the eye could see with a view of Block Island and clean sand made up for a surly surf. A few assorted campers and locals barely made a peep. We took a midday break, discovering the Ocean Mist, a loud, rollicking hangout where we feasted on garlicky steamed littleneck clams in white wine and salsa verde, served with crusty French bread. A floating mermaid and other kitschy memorabilia dangled over our heads for distraction. Upon our return, a lone sailboat was barely visible on the sun-sparkled horizon. I took in a deep breath of sea air and knew I wouldn’t have altered a single thing. |
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The town of Narragansett occupies a narrow strip of land running along the eastern bank of the Pettaquamscutt River (a.k.a. Narrow River) to the shore of the Bay. If the beaches didn’t provide as much exercise as four seniors desired, Narragansett’s seawall was just what the doctor ordered. The wall is an architectural wonder on a human scale, with the Bay as a dramatic backdrop. I paused several times to admire the graceful construction of rock totems visitors had left behind. Along the strip’s walkway, we spied The Towers, an historic remnant of the Narragansett Pier Casino built in the 1880s.
Before returning home, we tried Cap’n Jack’s in Wakefield for their Rhode Island chowder. For clam chowder lovers, the differences can be as passionately discussed as the texture and brininess of oysters.* While discussing the culinary merits of each, we could gaze across a grassy marshland which lay just beyond our rear patio seating.
I’ve heard the guilty eventually return to the crime site. So, if our crime was gluttony, our last night found us back at Matunuck Oyster Bar, this time with a firm reservation. With a packed tent at five o’clock I could only imagine the lineup at six. Seared scallops with a Togarashi seasoning sauce fit for a Buddha, sticky rice, pickled ginger aioli, and cucumber-carrot slaw was the perfect farewell dinner. If you can time such moments for when the sun is low enough to bathe you in its magic hour glow, then Rhode Island’s southern shore should be added to your wish list. |
Rock Totems (Seawall, Narragansett)
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*New England clam chowder (my favorite) has a thick, milk- or cream-based broth, while Rhode Island’s version has a light, clear broth, making the briny clam flavor more prominent. New England chowder often includes onions and potatoes, whereas Rhode Island's is dairy-free and tomato-free, focusing on clams, potatoes, and a clear broth, sometimes with smoky bacon. The Manhattan version is more acidic, with an emphasis on its tomato base. ~ S. B.
Photos in this installment are courtesy of Sandra Bertrand and fellow travelers, unless otherwise noted.
Photos in this installment are courtesy of Sandra Bertrand and fellow travelers, unless otherwise noted.
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Places of Interest
Matunuck Oyster Bar 629 Succotash Road Wakefield, RI Cap’n Jack’s Restaurant 706 Succotash Road South Kingstown, RI The Breachway Grill 1 Charlestown Beach Road Charlestown, RI The Andrea Seaside Restaurant and Beach Bar 89 Atlantic Ave Westerly, RI Ocean Mist 895 Matunuck Beach Road Wakefield, RI Charlestown Chamber of Commerce 4937 Old Post Road Charlestown, RI Manfredi Farms 59 Dunns Corner Road Westerly, RI |
Places of Interest
The Fantastic Umbrella Factory 4820 Old Post Rd, Charlestown, RI Kinney Azalea Gardens 2391 Kingstown Road Kingstown, RI Ninegret National Wildlife Refuge RI-1A Charlestown, RI South Kingstown Land Trust Sculpture Park Trail Green Hills Beach Roach South Kingstown, RI Westerly Library & Wilcox Park 44 Broad Street Westerly, RI Narragansett Sea Wall Ocean Road Narragansett, RI Flying Horse Carousel 151-153 Bay Street Watch Hill, RI |
Sandra Bertrand is an award-winning playwright and painter. She is Chief Art Critic for Highbrow Magazine, and she is the former founding editor of NAWA NOW, a quarterly magazine published by the National Association of Women Artists, Inc. Prior to working for Sanctuary as travel & culture editor, Sandra was a Featured Artist in May 2019.
