"My journey of showing people
how to eat better (and enjoy it) has helped me to understand that spotlighting what drives others to produce great products… sharing their insights and talents… is a gift to self." ~ Laura Pensiero |
ARCHIVED COLUMNS:
October 2020 "Living Like a Farmer" August 2020 "When All Seems Lost...Laugh Until it Hurts" May 2020: "Nature Can't Stay in Place" February 2020: "Ode to Chocolate" December 2019: "Happy Healthy Holidays" May 2019: "Pull the Trigger: Your Health is What Matters Most" April 2019 "Introducing Laura Pensiero, RD" |
Healthy Holidays: It's All About the Side Dishes
December 2020
Four Delicious Holiday Recipes Included with this Column Installment
For me, the holiday table is all about the side dishes, and they’re also your best bet for keeping it healthy. Think of the harvest of the season: Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, cranberries, fennel, kale, rutabaga, radicchio, harvest squashes, sweet potatoes, yams, and butternut. All scream yummy, and, by the way, very good for you, too! For entrees this year, in keeping with the downsize of groups mandated by COVID-19 concerns, I’ve gravitated towards stuffed Cornish hens. They are easier and, in my opinion, much more flavorful than a big old bird. Other lean ideas include pork tenderloins or lamb racks; both work well with a variety of marinades or rubs and keep the cooking process simple and easy. A leg of lamb is another easy and tasty way to feed a group under ten. But let’s go back to all of those vibrantly colored side dishes. Despite warnings to the contrary, the holidays can be healthy and a vegetarian’s (and veggie lover's) delight. The key is to watch your portions. Beyond that, this holiday is an excellent opportunity to try all sorts of vegetables in new or tried and true ways. |
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I think we’ve come a long way from believing that every side dish needs to be drenched in butter and cream. Instead, I love roasting root vegetables with herbs and olive oil until they are tender and caramelized. I tuck chopped chestnuts and celery into wild rice, brown rice and barley stuffing. Every year I try a different version of cranberry sauce, always on the tart side, to focus the flavors of the other side dishes. Don’t forget the Brussels sprouts either. They are a ‘must have’ at my holiday table, either sautéed or roasted with pancetta and chestnuts until tender and sweet. A drizzle of maple syrup tames their cabbage-y nature, and I’ve converted a number of self-proclaimed Brussels sprouts haters with just one spoonful. Because I’m no dietary saint, I do like a mouthful or two of lighter-than-air mashed potatoes, but I prefer the Mashed Potato-Rutabaga-Turnip “Gratin.” As for traditional creamy (and delicious) high-calorie items, such as lasagnas, macaroni and cheese, and traditional gratins, give cauliflower “bechamel” a try.
Some special nutritional characteristic that many autumn harvest vegetables share include healthy doses of vitamins A, C, and folate – those deep colored veggies never let you down! The pungent and delicious crucifers, or the mustard family which includes cabbages, cauliflower, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, rutabaga, and turnips, also offer up a variety of sulfur-containing substances called glucosinolates; when broken down in the body, different vegetables containing diverse glucosinolates form specific isothiocyanates. These compounds help to eliminate potential carcinogens and enhance tumor suppressor proteins. It just tastes good to me! Vegetables even show up in desserts like pumpkin pie or shortbread pumpkin bars; but honestly, I’m usually too full to partake. I might take a tiny taste to be satisfied. But the next morning, I’ll be the first one up with a mug of steaming coffee in one hand and a pumpkin bar in the other - which makes me smile for the rest of the day! HOLIDAY RECIPESBUTTERNUT, SAUSAGE & SAGE LASAGNA
Makes 8 entrée or 12 appetizer servings Lasagna is a great addition to any holiday table! It can be made up to a couple of days in advance and takes a lot of pressure off “day of” kitchen detail. This lighter version incorporates a cauliflower “béchamel,” decreasing calories and fat, and adding nutrients while keeping it creamy and delicious. This lasagna can easily be converted into a vegetarian version by adding other cooked vegetables (such as Brussels sprouts) for the sausage. Ingredients: Cauliflower Béchamel: 2 quarts vegetable or chicken broth 1 head cauliflower (about 1 ½ pounds), leaves discarded, remaining head cut in eighths ½ cup warmed milk 1 cup grated Parmesan, divided 1 cup grated sharp cheddar ¼ teaspoon cayenne pinch ground nutmeg salt and white pepper to taste |
ASK LAURA
Readers sent in questions to the prompt: STRESS-FREE HOLIDAY MEAL PLANNING “What is a healthy, low-carb choice to substitute for a potato side dish?” ~ Beth (VA) In my opinion, two of the most underrated vegetables are rutabaga and turnips. You can use either alone, mashing, roasting, or making a gratin like you would potatoes, or blend either (or both) with potatoes to cut the carb count. These cruciferous vegetables have potent natural chemicals that help the body defend itself against cancer. Broccoli, the most popular, is rich in vitamins A, C, and folate, all of which promote good health, and is also a good source of calcium, a mineral critical to good bone health, blood pressure control and possibly colon cancer prevention - which many women (and some men) do not get enough of. Glucosinolates, indole-3 carbinols, and isothiocyanates (a type of glucosinolate) are active phytochemicals or disease fighting plant chemicals. “What are some dishes I can prepare at least a day or two ahead of time and leave in the fridge? Part of my stress comes from so many things happening on the holiday itself, including guests arriving.” ~ Terri (NY) There is nothing that I dislike more than having guests over and being stuck in the kitchen. Some of the items I prepare ahead are:
“What’s a good thickening agent, besides corn starch, for gluten-free gravies and soups?” ~ Myrna (NY) I often use rice or tapioca flour as a substitute for gravies. As for soups, adding some cauliflower florets or a potato or two (cooking until tender and then pureeing, either separately or with the soup) can add nutrients and a creamy lusciousness without added fat or dairy. |
Sausage and Butternut Squash Ragu:
2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds sweet Italian sausage casing removed and crumbled or cut into 1-inch pieces 5 cups diced butternut squash (about 1 large peeled, seeded and diced) 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 shallots, chopped 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley 10 fresh sage leaves 1 ½ tablespoons all-purpose flour ½ cup dry white wine 1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock salt and freshly ground pepper And: 1 package no-boil lasagna sheets 3 cups (about 3/4 pound) shredded mozzarella 1 1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese Prepare Cauliflower Béchamel: Bring the vegetable or chicken stock to a boil. Add the cauliflower and cook until very tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain, reserving 2 cups of the cooking liquid. Prepare the cauliflower “béchamel,” adding the cauliflower, ½ of the Parmesan, the milk, and 1 cup of the reserved broth to the food processor or blender. Puree until smooth. With the motor still running, further thin the cauliflower béchamel with some of the remaining reserved cooking liquid – it may not need the full extra cup for a creamy viscosity; it should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the cheddar cheese. Add a pinch of nutmeg and cayenne, and season to taste with salt and pepper. |
Butternut, Sausage and Sage Lasagna
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Prepare Sausage and Butternut Ragu: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and sage and cook until sausage is evenly browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer sausage to a paper towel-lined plate. Add the olive oil, butternut squash, shallots, garlic, parsley, and sage to the pan. Cook, stirring often, until the vegetables soften slightly, about 5 minutes. Return the sausage to the skillet and sprinkle with the flour. Stir until completely incorporated and flour is not visible. Add the white wine, stirring to “deglaze” the bottom of the pan. When the wine is almost completely reduced, add the chicken stock or water. Bring the mixture to a boil; reduce heat and simmer until the sausage is cooked and tender and the pan juices have reduced, about 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Set aside to cool slightly.
Assemble Lasagna: Spread 1/2 cup of the béchamel on the bottom of a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking dish rubbed with butter or coated with cooking spray. Reserve 1 cup of the béchamel sauce for the top. Arrange 4 lasagna noodles over the sauce in the dish, trimming them, if necessary, so that they fit in one slightly overlapping layer. Spread ½ of the sausage and butternut mixture over the noodles, top with 1 ½ cups of mozzarella and ½ cup Parmesan cheese, then spoon half of the remaining béchamel sauce over top. Repeat layers, ending with noodles. Spread the reserved 1 cup of béchamel sauce over the pasta sheet, cover and bake at 375°F for 35 minutes. Remove the cover, sprinkle the top with the remaining Parmesan cheese and cook until lightly browned and bubbly, about 10 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.
Assemble Lasagna: Spread 1/2 cup of the béchamel on the bottom of a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking dish rubbed with butter or coated with cooking spray. Reserve 1 cup of the béchamel sauce for the top. Arrange 4 lasagna noodles over the sauce in the dish, trimming them, if necessary, so that they fit in one slightly overlapping layer. Spread ½ of the sausage and butternut mixture over the noodles, top with 1 ½ cups of mozzarella and ½ cup Parmesan cheese, then spoon half of the remaining béchamel sauce over top. Repeat layers, ending with noodles. Spread the reserved 1 cup of béchamel sauce over the pasta sheet, cover and bake at 375°F for 35 minutes. Remove the cover, sprinkle the top with the remaining Parmesan cheese and cook until lightly browned and bubbly, about 10 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving.
MAPLE BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH PANCETTA
Makes 6 to 8 servings This oven caramelized version has all that’s hard to resist: sweet ‘n spicy, slightly bitter and BACON - Italian bacon, that is. It’s an easy side, which can be made in advance, and offers a colorful and delicious preparation for the holiday table or for autumn and winter meals. Ingredients: 2 pounds Brussels sprouts, ends trimmed and halved (quartered if large) 4 ounces of bacon pancetta, cut into 1-2 inch strips 3 tablespoons olive oil salt and pepper ¼ cup warm water 2 tablespoons pure maple syrup Pinch cayenne |
Maple Brussels Sprouts with Pancetta
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Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook until still al dente, but a paring knife easily enters thickest part at core, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the Brussels sprouts to a bowl of ice water to “shock”/cool. Drain and set aside until ready to prepare.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the olive oil and bacon over medium heat, and cook, stirring here and there, until the fat has been rendered from the bacon, about 5 minutes.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Combine Brussels sprouts, pancetta (if using) rosemary and olive oil on a rimmed baking sheet large enough to hold them in one layer. Stir to combine and coat with oil and intersperse bacon. Season with salt and pepper, and roast in upper third of oven, stirring once halfway through roasting, until vegetables are golden and tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Use the tip of a sharp paring knife to test the doneness of the base of a Brussels sprout; it should insert easily. If the vegetables are well browned but not tender enough, tent them with foil and continue cooking. In a small bowl, stir together the water, maple syrup and cayenne. Stir into the hot baking sheet, using a wooden spoon to dissolve any browned bits. Serve hot or warm.
In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat the olive oil and bacon over medium heat, and cook, stirring here and there, until the fat has been rendered from the bacon, about 5 minutes.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Combine Brussels sprouts, pancetta (if using) rosemary and olive oil on a rimmed baking sheet large enough to hold them in one layer. Stir to combine and coat with oil and intersperse bacon. Season with salt and pepper, and roast in upper third of oven, stirring once halfway through roasting, until vegetables are golden and tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Use the tip of a sharp paring knife to test the doneness of the base of a Brussels sprout; it should insert easily. If the vegetables are well browned but not tender enough, tent them with foil and continue cooking. In a small bowl, stir together the water, maple syrup and cayenne. Stir into the hot baking sheet, using a wooden spoon to dissolve any browned bits. Serve hot or warm.
MASHED POTATO-RUTABAGA-TURNIP GRATIN
Makes 8 servings
*From Hudson Valley Mediterranean: The Gigi Good Food Cookbook (Pensiero/HarperCollins 2009)
Ingredients:
1 small rutabaga (3/4 pound), peeled and cut into large dice
3 medium potatoes (1¼ pounds), peeled and quartered
2 medium-large turnips (3/4 pound), peeled and quartered
3/4 cup grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons olive oil
¾ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme leaves
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rutabaga and cook 20 minutes. Add the potatoes and turnips and cook another 20 to 25 minutes, until all the vegetables are easily pierced with the tip of a paring knife. Drain. Preheat the oven to 400°F and grease a 2-quart casserole dish.
While the vegetables are still hot, carefully place them into a large bowl. Add ½ cup of the Parmesan (leaving enough to dust the top) and add the remaining ingredients; stir to incorporate. Transfer to the casserole. Sprinkle the top with the remaining Parmesan and bake until heated through and the top is browned, about 20 minutes.
Makes 8 servings
*From Hudson Valley Mediterranean: The Gigi Good Food Cookbook (Pensiero/HarperCollins 2009)
Ingredients:
1 small rutabaga (3/4 pound), peeled and cut into large dice
3 medium potatoes (1¼ pounds), peeled and quartered
2 medium-large turnips (3/4 pound), peeled and quartered
3/4 cup grated Parmesan
2 tablespoons olive oil
¾ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon fresh chopped thyme leaves
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the rutabaga and cook 20 minutes. Add the potatoes and turnips and cook another 20 to 25 minutes, until all the vegetables are easily pierced with the tip of a paring knife. Drain. Preheat the oven to 400°F and grease a 2-quart casserole dish.
While the vegetables are still hot, carefully place them into a large bowl. Add ½ cup of the Parmesan (leaving enough to dust the top) and add the remaining ingredients; stir to incorporate. Transfer to the casserole. Sprinkle the top with the remaining Parmesan and bake until heated through and the top is browned, about 20 minutes.
GIGI PUMPKIN BARS
Makes 8 to 10 servings
These deliciously light and creamy pumpkin custard can be baked as bars in a 9 x 13 metal pan or as a pie/tart in a 9-inch spring-form pan or 10-inch round ceramic dish. Instead of buying the spices separately, you can substitute pumpkin pie spice for the same amount. Enhance the filling flavor and spices by combining the ingredients a day ahead and keep chilled and covered, then proceed with the recipe.
Ingredients:
For the crust:
½ cup oatmeal such as Quaker Quick Cooking Oatmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup packed light brown sugar
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
Pinch salt
For the filling:
One 16-ounce can pumpkin puree
One 12-ounce can evaporated milk
6 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
To make the crust, preheat oven to 350ºF.
Stir the crust ingredients together in a medium bowl and press into the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch baking pan. Bake in the middle of the oven until pale golden and crust is set, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool slightly.
To make the filling, while crust is baking, whisk the filling ingredients together in a bowl until smooth. Pour the mixture on top of the crust and bake in middle of the oven until the filling is just set, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Cut into bars with a serrated knife.
Serving suggestion: Top with whipped cream flavored with pure vanilla extract and a pinch of powdered sugar and cinnamon. Also consider adding shot of brandy or rum to the whipped cream.
Makes 8 to 10 servings
These deliciously light and creamy pumpkin custard can be baked as bars in a 9 x 13 metal pan or as a pie/tart in a 9-inch spring-form pan or 10-inch round ceramic dish. Instead of buying the spices separately, you can substitute pumpkin pie spice for the same amount. Enhance the filling flavor and spices by combining the ingredients a day ahead and keep chilled and covered, then proceed with the recipe.
Ingredients:
For the crust:
½ cup oatmeal such as Quaker Quick Cooking Oatmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
½ cup packed light brown sugar
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
Pinch salt
For the filling:
One 16-ounce can pumpkin puree
One 12-ounce can evaporated milk
6 large eggs
3/4 cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
To make the crust, preheat oven to 350ºF.
Stir the crust ingredients together in a medium bowl and press into the bottom of a 9 x 13-inch baking pan. Bake in the middle of the oven until pale golden and crust is set, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool slightly.
To make the filling, while crust is baking, whisk the filling ingredients together in a bowl until smooth. Pour the mixture on top of the crust and bake in middle of the oven until the filling is just set, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Cut into bars with a serrated knife.
Serving suggestion: Top with whipped cream flavored with pure vanilla extract and a pinch of powdered sugar and cinnamon. Also consider adding shot of brandy or rum to the whipped cream.
Laura Pensiero is Sanctuary's nutrition columnist and the founder, chef/owner and creative force behind Gigi Hudson Valley (Gigi Trattoria and Gigi Catering). She is the author of Hudson Valley Mediterranean and co-author of The Strang Cancer Prevention Center Cookbook. Find out more about Laura by reading her interview with Sanctuary HERE.