Culture Crawl Feature: March 2024
A WOMEN'S OASIS:
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, a Must-See for Women Globetrotters
San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, a Must-See for Women Globetrotters
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"As an older woman, community is necessary for well-being. It’s incredibly easy to make lasting friendships here. And there are so many connections that you can end up knowing most of the town.” ~ Jan Baross, award-winning writer, filmmaker and artist |
By Sandra Bertrand
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The first time I heard about San Miguel de Allende (SMA) was at my 50th California high school reunion. My old friend Jan Baross and I reunited, sharing stories about my life in New York City and hers in San Miguel respectively. In Jan’s words, "From the first time I came to SMA 30 years ago and wandered the cobblestone streets, my eyes felt filled up by the colors on the colonial buildings, by the people in the market. It was such a complete and enchanted feeling." It wasn’t the first time my partner, Joanne, and I had been to Mexico. When we were still young enough to tackle the pyramids of the Yucatan, it was an obvious choice. In the decades that followed, our peripatetic souls took us to other continents, zigzagging back to the New World to explore the locks of the Panama Canal and the mysteries of Machu Pichu, among other obsessions. It was time to find out what all the fuss was about and why this city has become a popular travel destination for many women. |
(L to R): Jan Baross, Joanne and Sandra
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City of San Miguel de Allende, Night
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Our city of choice is located in the valley of Bajio, a gigantic plateau that stretches from the U.S. border to the volcanic belt near Mexico City. Situated six thousand feet above sea level, this bajio or “lowland” rests below impressively tall mountain ranges to the north and east. A departure from Houston, where my sister resides, via George W. Bush International Airport to Del Bajio International Airport (BJX) near the city of Leon is an easy route. We hop aboard for the hour and a half ride shuttle, passing acres of scrub and dusty village outposts with the scent of mesquite, the air a comfortable seventy degrees. As we sway over the ancient bumpy roads approaching the outskirts, ochre, blue, and tangerine-colored buildings belie whatever poverty may reside behind closed doors.
Our driver deposits us in front of a russet painted B&B in the Guadalupe section, several blocks north of bustling El Centro — the historic sixteenth century soul of the city. Senor Nunio, all smiles, is on hand to greet us, as we make the climb to our third-floor quarters. It’s a modest but clean room within easy walking distance of Jan’s own home.
With empty stomachs and a first night’s anticipation for where Jan will lead us, we soon find ourselves in the whirling center of it all, a place that Travel + Leisure named the globe’s best city in the 2021 World's Best Awards, the result of “its exceptional architecture, revelatory hotels, and infectious sense of community.” |
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When we settle ourselves on the rooftop terrace of El Pegaso (Sp. For Pegasus), the “sense of community” is instantly apparent when one of Jan’s many friends bounds from the adjoining table to greet us. Jan, a multi-talented writer/filmmaker and graphic artist has made herself a vivid presence in the San Miguel art scene, so finding ourselves warmly welcomed is no surprise. While I wait for my order, I ask Jan why she returns every year. Is it just for the warmth of the sun? “It’s the warmth of community. As an older woman, community is necessary for well-being. It’s incredibly easy to make lasting friendships here. And there are so many connections that you can end up knowing most of the town.”
When my main course of cheese-stuffed chili peppers, lathered in a creamy walnut sauce and topped with pomegranate seeds (!) arrives at last, I can concentrate on my meal, basking in the jovial spirit of the crowd as the lights of our chosen city come alive below. Next, we stroll along the Jardin, the town square and beating heart of San Miguel. Darkening silhouettes of foreigners and locals parade past the nightly bench sitters, a jumble of all ages. It’s a dense lot of humanity, focused on the brilliantly lit Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel cathedral fronting the square. Constructed in the sixteenth century, its pink limestone facade and towering spires make a powerful architectural statement. Totally reconstructed three hundred years later by a local draughtsman, his design was based on a Gothic Cathedral in Cologne, Germany. This church will hold dear in our memories.
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Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel at Night
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Male Figure (By Felipe Guito)
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Sleep is a wishful enterprise with the nightly barks of “rooftop guard dogs” and a lone rooster at 3 am. It’s a small price to pay for lodgings under seventy dollars a night! Little wonder that Jan chose San Miguel for inspiration. An early morning sun burns off the night’s chill while our first walk through the Guadalupe “hood” reveals a visual wonderland of murals. A flock of gigantic birds, an alluring senorita with a tangle of vines for hair, and a score of magical beings confront us at every turn. By the time we reach Fabrica La Aurora, our eyes are filled with enough art to last our visit. “La Aurora” was the single largest textile factory and employer until the early 1990s, when cotton imports flooded the market. After closing, local artists became interested in converting its spaces into studios. A quick breakfast on the grounds, and we’re off, dipping in and out of white walled corridors to see the actual artisans at work. One jaw-dropping example is the work of Felipe Guito, whose male figures reveal iridescent worlds inside their skins. |
Joanne and Sandra in Front of Birds Mural
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Woman with Hair Made of Vines Mural
Known for its picturesque murals, handcrafted by artists who find inspiration for their creative medium here, it's not surprising that many find SMA to be one of the best cities for street art.
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Pink Female in Mask Mural
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How did San Miguel grow into such a Mexican oasis for the arts? One theory is that it started with Stirling Dickinson, a Chicagoan who began Instituto de Allende Art School that would become an international draw. After World War II, with veterans coming to study on the G.I. Bill, word of its wonders spread back to the U.S. In the inner courtyard a gigantic mural illustrates an historical moment in the region’s struggles.
Next on our list is the Biblioteca, not just a lending library for the community but a lush courtyard for dining along with a bookstore whose ceiling is a fantastical display of Mexican history with colorful monolithic nudes — hardly the Sistine Chapel, but diverting, nevertheless. I find a sole copy of Jan’s travelogue, Ms. Baross Goes to Mexico, which she will sign for me over a leisurely lunch on the site.
Shopping is not for the faint of heart, with imposing doors and darkened corridors to lead us astray. But it’s a challenge worth pursuing. At Arte Zapoteca, we find a vivid red and gold bedspread of manta cloth, a multipurpose cotton that wears extremely well. Marie Belen’s jewelry boutique is a true find, where the friendly owner, with the expertise of a hand surgeon, finds me the perfect silver bracelet. Joanne ferrets out Laura Cantu Jewelry for one of the most original silver wraparound rings our eyes have ever set upon. |
Ceiling Mural, Bibliotec Bookstore
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Courtyard of Rosewood Hotel at Night
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As the day winds down, I am set upon seeing a Bajia sunset from the Rosewood Hotel’s terrace bar. The walk southwards becomes an extended affair, with ancient cobblestones a daunting business and sidewalk embankments almost non-existent. Ironically, the largest number of expats we observed were over the 65-year-old retirement age and quick to admit everyone knows someone who has taken a spill. The Rosewood is an opulent setting, with martinis and a lingering band of crimson ribboning the horizon. If luxury accommodations are your cup of tequila, then its massive archways and gurgling fountains are to be enjoyed. But a spectrum of cheap and moderately priced rooms can be found, with irresistible courtyards to tempt even the most frugal.
Each outing included new flavors that made the town a moving feast. My favorite happened at La Casa Nostra, where we celebrated a pre-birthday dinner for Jan with Rhoda Draws (an 80-plus celebrated caricaturist who changed her name to fit her occupation). Rhoda proved to be a lively table companion. As a teacher of urban sketching in the San Francisco Bay area, a good friend and fellow artists suggested she visit San Miguel de Allende with her students. “Eventually I gave in to her nagging me about it! I came to SMA with students for the Day of the Dead celebration in 2016 and again the following year. The town was clearly my happy place.” |
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In her words, she “hit the ground running” by contacting the local chapter of Urban Sketchers before her first visit. “SMA is full of color, culture, community and (affordable) cost of living. There is a vibrant art and music scene here.” For Rhoda, it’s an obvious fit. She continues to teach, taking students on sketching trips to nearby “Magical Towns.” She is involved in workshops to perform monologs based on her life story, sings with a local choral group, and recently spearheaded a campaign to create a map of her colonial Guadalupe neighborhood. “After six years, I have no regrets.” The good vibes continued as the waiter brought a glass of champagne for Jan and an amuse bouche for the four of us. This creamy carrot concoction in mini cups was followed by a starter salad of gorgonzola cheese, arugula and caramelized onions. Our mains were varied, each exceptionally prepared — veal tenderloin, honey-coated shrimp, and tagliatelle with black truffles for my companions and gnocchi with ragu sauce for me. The Malbec flowed freely, finished off by a mini glass of mescal, with hints of rosemary and a hibiscus infusion. Rhoda ended the evening with her own feisty summing up. “I feel safe here. There are many older women/artists who have found SMA and planted roots here. We are the risk-takers, not listening to the fearful warnings of those who still think the U.S. is the best and only place in the world.”
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Rhoda Draws
(Photo Courtesy: Rhoda Draws) |
An actual birthday dinner was held on Antonia's rooftop terrace, but if I can’t remember the cuisine particulars, it may be because the adjoining table, also celebrating a feliz compleano, quickly broke into Polish songs, while the waiter delivered a flan to our table, lit with a sparking Roman candle. The evening was topped off by our ride down in a glass elevator which suddenly stopped midway. We emerged a few minutes later, witnessed by another group of arrivals with some trepidation.
With over 350 restaurants, our own list is but a meagre sampling, but my own helter-skelter recommendations include the following: Before exploring the open market where endless bins of fruits and vegetables play second fiddle to baby parrots, the restaurant at the adjacent Loreto Hotel serves delicious corn, cheese and egg quesadillas with fresh kiwi juice. Kenny ’s Place is a trippy Sunday choice in our Guadalupe area, with gringo-infested counter seating for scrambled eggs, chorizo, and great Bloody Marys. Lunch at Los Milagros provides an in-house guitarist, perfectly grilled chicken, and salads chock full of olives, tomatoes, and hearts of palm. All the spoils of the good life can be found on Quince’s upper terrace. Add an impeccable wait staff where we were too early for the lunch menu but still managed to eat some memorable enchiladas mole.
With over 350 restaurants, our own list is but a meagre sampling, but my own helter-skelter recommendations include the following: Before exploring the open market where endless bins of fruits and vegetables play second fiddle to baby parrots, the restaurant at the adjacent Loreto Hotel serves delicious corn, cheese and egg quesadillas with fresh kiwi juice. Kenny ’s Place is a trippy Sunday choice in our Guadalupe area, with gringo-infested counter seating for scrambled eggs, chorizo, and great Bloody Marys. Lunch at Los Milagros provides an in-house guitarist, perfectly grilled chicken, and salads chock full of olives, tomatoes, and hearts of palm. All the spoils of the good life can be found on Quince’s upper terrace. Add an impeccable wait staff where we were too early for the lunch menu but still managed to eat some memorable enchiladas mole.
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Imagine walking streets where the ghosts of the great Mesoamerican civilizations still hover, reaching as far back as 1500 BC. Flash forward to 1510 and Cortez’s final victory. The Spanish crown doled out land grants for missionaries and settlers, Father Miguel Hidalgo among them. In the surrounding plains the thirst for silver veins went unabated and King Charles III, a wily despot, delivered the final blow with the expulsion of the Jesuits. Rich landowners, such as Ignacio Allende and Pastor Miguel Hidalgo, became key conspirators, joining the ranks of early martyrs to the cause. With Colonel Iturbide switching sides, the War of Independence was achieved in 1821.
Street, Zone Centro
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Sandra with Puppets
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It’s a rich and complicated history, one which inspires as much wonder and investigation as any other UNESCO World Heritage site. A visit to the Museo Historico de San Miguel provides an in-depth history of the region. Another must-see is the Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal. The latter is a spectacular example of 17th century civil architecture, with massive wooden doorways flanked by towering stone columns. An impressive inner courtyard leads to a rotating exhibit of the region’s folk artists. Several exquisite portraits of the Virgin of Guadalupe were on display during our visit.
A healthy dose of R&R is always within reach. Dipping into La Parroquia’s interior is made quietly serene by its simple gables and carved wooden ceiling. The celebration of Candelaria was still underway in Parque Juarez, where plants and flowers for sale festooned the grounds. Celebrants bake a figurine of Baby Jesus inside their cakes and the recipient or Godparent must take the tiny subject to a local priest for a blessing.
A healthy dose of R&R is always within reach. Dipping into La Parroquia’s interior is made quietly serene by its simple gables and carved wooden ceiling. The celebration of Candelaria was still underway in Parque Juarez, where plants and flowers for sale festooned the grounds. Celebrants bake a figurine of Baby Jesus inside their cakes and the recipient or Godparent must take the tiny subject to a local priest for a blessing.
Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal, Interior Courtyard
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Virgin de Guadalupe con Juan Diego, VXIII (Anonymous)
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A fifteen-minute taxi ride to La Gruta (grotto) in the town of Delores Hidalgo, is a paradisical experience. Participants can wade through warming pools to a domed cave fed by the hot springs. We enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the gardens afterward, my club sandwich with a strawberry fruit shake making for a perfect afternoon.
As dining is a cultural event in what has become an internationally desirable location, I must mention two nights that satisfied our culinary curiosities. One was Garufa where we satisfied our hunger for an Argentinian steak and a thimble of mezcal. (To clarify, tequila can only be made from Blue Weber agave, while mezcal can use any kind of agave plant.) The other “out-of-the-box” choice was La Parada, a charming out of the way foray for Peruvian ceviche. Two ceviches were beautifully served, with the salmon version worth texting home about. The Pisco sours are as good or better than Lima’s finest offerings.
El Encanto is like a stage setting of Mexican tchotchkes with a surprisingly good spaghetti Alfredo for our farewell dinner. Jan had reserved tickets for an evening of short plays in the Santa Ana Teatro, housed within the Bibliotec complex. The most heartening was a bi-lingual offering with an American woman and a Mexican matron who meet in a border bathroom and find common ground.
Maybe commonality is the takeaway for a San Miguel visit. It’s a virtual pinata of humanity with a heady dose of feminism, a place where brilliant color and sound, smell and taste tumble forth, unleashing the senses and reminding us what being alive is all about.
El Encanto is like a stage setting of Mexican tchotchkes with a surprisingly good spaghetti Alfredo for our farewell dinner. Jan had reserved tickets for an evening of short plays in the Santa Ana Teatro, housed within the Bibliotec complex. The most heartening was a bi-lingual offering with an American woman and a Mexican matron who meet in a border bathroom and find common ground.
Maybe commonality is the takeaway for a San Miguel visit. It’s a virtual pinata of humanity with a heady dose of feminism, a place where brilliant color and sound, smell and taste tumble forth, unleashing the senses and reminding us what being alive is all about.
Sunset over San Miguel de Allende
MORE TO EXPLORE:
The lives and art of Jan Baross (L) and Rhoda Draws
Find our TRAILBLAZER this month: Mexican Heroine from SMA
Find our TRAILBLAZER this month: Mexican Heroine from SMA
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SIGHTS & SHOPPING IN SMA Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel Principal S/N, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende Biblioteca Pública de San Miguel de Allende Insurgentes #25, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende Fabrica La Aurora Art & Design Center Calz de La Aurora S/N, Aurora, 37710 San Miguel de Allende Santa Ana Teatro Relox 50-A, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende Casa de Cultura Banamex - Casa del Mayorazgo de la Canal San Miguel de Allende Instituto Allende Ancha de San Antonio 22, Zona Centro 37700 San Miguel de Allende |
SIGHTS & SHOPPING IN SMA La Gruta Hot Springs and Spa A Dolores Hidalgo km 10, 37893 El Cortijo Arte Zapoteco (Handwoven rugs, blankets, bedspreads) Mezones No. 57, Zona Centro, 37710 San Miguel de Allende +52 415 113 95 11 Maria Belen, a Jewel for Life Calle del Dr Ignacio Hernandez Macias 94, Zona Centro, 37700 San Miguel de Allende Laura Cantu Jewelry Calle Hidalgo, 4 San Miguel de Allende Location |
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Sandra Bertrand is an award-winning playwright and painter. She is Chief Art Critic for Highbrow Magazine and a contributing writer for GALO Magazine. Prior to working for Sanctuary as Culture & Travel Editor, Sandra was a Featured Artist in May 2019.
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