Travel Journal
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Malta & Sicily:
Time Traveling Adventures, Part I
May 2020
By Sandra Bertrand
“Once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before.” ~ Dalai Lama
Most curious travelers, like my partner Joanne and I, have spent many a rainy day pouring over maps for a future vacation. A little secret I’d like to share - the next time you begin your own investigation, peruse the peripheries around your landing spot and presto (!) you may not hit Oz, but some place just as wonderful.
Malta.
If the name conjures up images of walled cities with more than a few knights and even a shipwrecked disciple (St. Paul) thrown up on its rocky shores, you’re on the right track. Our destination? Syracuse (Siracusa) - Sicilian splendor with ancient roots in classical Greek history. BUT a small slip of the finger southward on the map, and Malta’s capital of Valletta sprang into view. We were hooked.
Mdina & Rabat, Malta
In early July of 2018, we arrived in Malta and secured a shuttle bus from Valletta for Rabat, the westward town which sits below the forbidding walls of ancient Mdina. After a wild toad’s ride into the sunset - through labyrinthine streets, marinas and palm-strewn byways - we reached our guest house and restaurant. After quickly unpacking, a small patio directly outside Point De Vue provided a spectacular view of Mdina’s fortress. Even with a perfect seafood risotto and several glasses of the local white wine, we could barely reign in the anticipation of morning’s rise.
Most curious travelers, like my partner Joanne and I, have spent many a rainy day pouring over maps for a future vacation. A little secret I’d like to share - the next time you begin your own investigation, peruse the peripheries around your landing spot and presto (!) you may not hit Oz, but some place just as wonderful.
Malta.
If the name conjures up images of walled cities with more than a few knights and even a shipwrecked disciple (St. Paul) thrown up on its rocky shores, you’re on the right track. Our destination? Syracuse (Siracusa) - Sicilian splendor with ancient roots in classical Greek history. BUT a small slip of the finger southward on the map, and Malta’s capital of Valletta sprang into view. We were hooked.
Mdina & Rabat, Malta
In early July of 2018, we arrived in Malta and secured a shuttle bus from Valletta for Rabat, the westward town which sits below the forbidding walls of ancient Mdina. After a wild toad’s ride into the sunset - through labyrinthine streets, marinas and palm-strewn byways - we reached our guest house and restaurant. After quickly unpacking, a small patio directly outside Point De Vue provided a spectacular view of Mdina’s fortress. Even with a perfect seafood risotto and several glasses of the local white wine, we could barely reign in the anticipation of morning’s rise.
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A somber comfort overtakes the visitor upon entering the massive gates of the “Silent City.” Ordinary time melts away with each footfall. The Arab reign in the 11th century lasted until 1091 AD when the Norman Kingdom in Sicily arrived. Generations of feudal rulers rose to prominence and fell, until Malta was handed over to the Knights of St. John in 1530. In 1563, a strong earthquake threatened to demolish the monolithic prize, but even this “Act of God” could not deter the Order. The Knights managed to restore and rebuild the Arab city and its Byzantine cathedral in the baroque style evident today.
If the thick-walled structure seemed a bit oppressive in the morning heat, the magnificence of St. Paul’s Cathedral lay directly ahead. Such cool dark recesses were a welcome respite. We gladly surrendered five euros apiece to experience the outstanding gold work The Conversion of St. Paul (in the choir behind the main altar) and other works of art by Mattia Preti. According to legend, the Cathedral was built on the spot where St. Paul converted Publius, the Roman governor, to Christianity. The adjoining Church Museum is also recommended for those who long for total immersion, but more splendor awaited us in Valletta. Such an embarrassment of riches can be better handled in measured doses. |
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Our most delightful Mdina visit was to Casa Bernard, an historic 16th century Maltese palazzo of a noble family of French origin. Part of its charm lay in the fact that it is run as a private family home belonging to George and Josette Magri. With the enthusiastic couple as our guide, we toured the hallway, chapel, dining room, three drawing rooms, library, and main bedroom, relishing the many furnishings, paintings and objets d’art. A courtyard visit revealed the medieval watchtower built on Roman foundations.
At this point, we were famished. Luckily, a small trattoria’s goat cheese and pepper sandwiches fortified us for Palazzo Falson. The second oldest building in Mdina, it was here that Vice Admiral Michele Falsone first entertained the Grand Master of the Knights when Charles V bequeathed the island to the Order in the 16th century. The riches on display, and there are many (including a library of over 4,500 books), are the cultural spoils of a certain Captain Olof Frederik Golicher, an artist and philanthropist who resided at the palazzo until his death in 1962. |
Malta has held a magnetic appeal down the centuries. Dating from 1000 BC, the seafaring Phoenician traders found the site a perfect refuge until the Roman Republic took possession in 218 BC. (Later that afternoon, we would discover near our hotel the remains of an unearthed Roman villa with its elegant mosaics.)
Our last night in Rabat was spent at Il-Veduta, a terraced restaurant with a breathtaking view of the Malta countryside. A show of fireworks lit up the sky, with the twinkling lights of the capital city beyond as a backdrop. With the day’s heat a distant memory, we shared a spaghetti carbonara and penne with funghi. Eying the unfinished plates, our waiter suggested a takeaway, but we declined. (One takeaway cannoli from lunch was already expiring in my shoulder bag.)
Our last night in Rabat was spent at Il-Veduta, a terraced restaurant with a breathtaking view of the Malta countryside. A show of fireworks lit up the sky, with the twinkling lights of the capital city beyond as a backdrop. With the day’s heat a distant memory, we shared a spaghetti carbonara and penne with funghi. Eying the unfinished plates, our waiter suggested a takeaway, but we declined. (One takeaway cannoli from lunch was already expiring in my shoulder bag.)
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Valletta, Malta
We experienced another dizzying roller coaster ride to our B&B - only San Francisco’s own vertiginous streets occupy a distant second. We headed first in the direction of the famed Co-Cathedral of St. John (a sister to Mdina’s Cathedral of St. Paul), finding ourselves in a profusion of pennants flying in the morning breezes of Repubblika Street. I felt as if we’d landed in a Chinese New Year parade, with all the deafening cymbals from a passing band. A nearby juice bar waiter admitted he was from Estonia and like us, hadn’t a clue which saint was being celebrated. Joining a boisterous line of tourists for the noon opening of the Cathedral, we were forewarned that the inlaid marble floor containing the crypts of the chivalrous was off limits to narrow heeled shoes. Slippers could be purchased, but we were in luck with our sneakers. Mattia Preti’s genius at depicting the life of St. John on the barrel vault stopped each viewer at mid-breadth - all in all, a blinding experience of the High Baroque style. |
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The real eye-opener for any art lover can be found in the Oratory, where the altar piece is The Beheading of St. John the Baptist, the largest painting by Caravaggio and the only one signed by the artist. The dark subject matter in his inimitable chiaroscuro style is unforgettable.
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With only a day before our departure for Siracusa, we made a mad dash for the Grand Master’s Palace and the Armory. On first entering the Dining Hall, a grand portrait of H.R.H. Queen Elizabeth II greets the viewer, a reminder of the high days of the British Empire’s rule over the island - Malta only became a Republic in 1974.
Visiting the magnificent Armory Hall of these warrior monks is a humbling experience. In 1565, the Great Siege by Ottoman invaders occurred. Their defeat by Grand Master Jean de Valette and his Knights is an unparalleled victory in military history. The arms on display rank among the world’s greatest collections. Distinctly oriental Turkish armor and richly ornamented sabers delight even the youngest visitor. Our last trek of the day to Fort St. Elmo proved to be a testament to the valor of the Allies in WWII. In 1943, over 230 Axis ships in 164 days were sunk, a victory leading to the Allied success in North Africa. An excellent video provided much needed respite from the blistering heat. |
A sunset dinner along the Grand Harbor wharf was a perfect farewell to Malta and its past and present glories.
Siracusa, Sicily
Embarking at 5:15 am on our Virtu Ferry was a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, a couple of cups of coffee and a chocolate croissant brightened our prospects. We reserved a taxi for 95 euros for the one-hour trip to Siracusa. It was a lazy ride, a blur of sea and farmland - the scent of olive, citrus and almond groves in the air - all ochre and blue shimmering of a Sicilian adventure beginning.
Siracusa, Sicily
Embarking at 5:15 am on our Virtu Ferry was a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, a couple of cups of coffee and a chocolate croissant brightened our prospects. We reserved a taxi for 95 euros for the one-hour trip to Siracusa. It was a lazy ride, a blur of sea and farmland - the scent of olive, citrus and almond groves in the air - all ochre and blue shimmering of a Sicilian adventure beginning.
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Once we’d crossed Ponte San Lucia from the mainland of Siracusa to the Ortigia isola, our hearts began beating a little faster. We landed in the wide thoroughfare of Matteotti Street, our landlady waving at us with keys in hand. After a Buongiorno or two, it became evident that her English was well in hand, and I could relax. As for our top floor lodgings, the kitchenette, sitting room and bedroom were modest, but our rooftop terrace exceeded our wildest dreams. A sailcloth blew across the ample picnic table and chairs and our 360-degree view extended from the broad harbor view with its tour ships on the western side to the sparkling Ionian Sea to the east.
Ortigia is separated from its mother city by a narrow channel, its breezy thin-as-a-thread streets and charming piazzas make this the perfect Greek-inspired getaway. Cicero called it “the loveliest city in the world.” From our first day of wandering without purpose, we were smitten. The island is dedicated to Artemis, but with the advent of Christianity, the goddess fused with St. Lucy, the patron saint. |
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Just blocks from our apartment, we stopped for a beer within sight of the tiny bridge we’d first crossed, the disheveled array of the Temple of Apollo to our right. Once a Doric temple, it is now an expanse of rubble where a black cat skirted its base.
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A little north of the ruins, we settled on Arche, an outside café where we enjoyed steamed clams and swordfish. A local Siracusa woman joined our conversation, intent on describing the wonders of Arethusa, a nymph who was turned into a nearby freshwater spring by the Olympian deity Artemis. I settled back, simply content to enjoy the evening’s own embrace. Within whistling distance of the main mercato, we promised ourselves to return for some serious shopping the next morning.
With a string of days stretching before us, filling the larder of our own digs was high on our list of indulgences. But once swallowed up in the bustle of market stalls, getting attention was no easy task. We were surrounded by vendors screaming at no one in particular like men with terrible toothaches. We opted for some overpriced prosciutto, an assortment of cheeses with names like caccia cavallo that sounded like a curse, olives, a chunk of peasant bread, golden plums, and tomatoes (the latter simply mouthwatering). I stopped to snap the Orange lady, all decked out in a colorful apron to match her juice table. |
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The pride of Ortigia is undeniably the Duomo, a fifth century temple to Athena encased in a church since the 7th century. Belying its Baroque façade, once inside the cool interior, the massive yet lovely Doric columns announce its Greek origins. Close by, the church of Santa Lucia alla Badia must be visited for Caravaggio’s masterpiece, The Burial of St. Lucy.
Once seated with our tangerine colored Aperol spritzes at a café bar opposite the church, we watched a Sicilian wedding straight out of Central Casting. The bride, her big-haired bridesmaids in spike heels, and the groom, sporting an indigo mop of hair worthy of a rock star, descended upon the piazza. We ordered a second spritz, relinquishing a freebie plate of appetizers. On the other side of Ponte St. Lucia, we visited the ancient archeological park with its Teatro Greco. This is no ordinary amphitheater from 474 B.C. but the same 15,000 horseshoe-tiered masterpiece of design where Plato himself listened to Sophocles and Aeschylus. |
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The Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius) is here as well, a 154-foot high cave for explorers of all ages. If Caravaggio the artist has appeared more than once in our travelogue, it was he who named the cave, convinced that it was this ear used by Siracusa’s ruler Dionysius to eavesdrop on his prisoners. Such adventures are best followed by a hearty repast, and we found one at Foglia, its lace-covered window strewn with Edwardian dolls. It was worth the wait with a caponata with eggplant and a ratatouille of tomatoes and stuffed sardines, followed by a rabbit stew. We returned to our moon-lit terrace to toast our Sicilian home. All was molto bene. |
Sandra Bertrand is an award-winning playwright and painter. She is Chief Art Critic for Highbrow Magazine and a contributing writer for GALO Magazine. Sandra was Sanctuary's Featured Artist in May 2019 and is also Sanctuary's columnist for "Travel Journal."
In the next installment...
More food and nautical adventures await in Ortigia, followed by the romance of Taormina, Sicily’s seductive version of St. Tropez within the watchful eye of Mt. Etna.
More food and nautical adventures await in Ortigia, followed by the romance of Taormina, Sicily’s seductive version of St. Tropez within the watchful eye of Mt. Etna.
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POINTS OF INTEREST: Mdina & Rabat, Malta Point De Vue Guesthouse and Restaurant Saqqajja Square, Mdina RBT 1191 (356) 2145-4117 St. Paul’s Cathedral 2 Triq San Pawl, L-Mdina MDN 1061 Casa Bernard 46, St. Paul’s Street, Mdina, Rabat Tel: 21 451 888 Palazzo Falson Villegaignon Street, Mdina MDN 1191 Tel: 21 454 512 Il Veduta Is Saqqajja, Rabat, Malta Tel: (356) 21 454-666 |
POINTS OF INTEREST: Valletta, Malta St. John’s Cathedral St. John Street, Triq San Gwann, Il Belt, Valletta Palace State Rooms, Grand Masters’ Palace and Armory St. George’s Square, Valletta VLT 1191 Fort St. Elmo and The National War Museum Contact Heritage Malta Tel: (356) 229 54 000 Virtu Ferries Tel: (356) 220 69 022 |
POINTS OF INTEREST: Siracusa (Syracuse), Sicily Tourist Office Via Roma 31 Tel: 800 055 500 Trattoria La Foglia Via Capodieci 21, Siracusa SR 96100 Tel: (39) 0931 66233 The Duomo Piazza Duomo, Siracusa SR 96100 Tel: (39) 0931 1561472 [email protected] Santa Lucia alla Badia Santa Lucia alla Badia 2, Siracusa SR 96100 Tel: (39) 0931 1561472 Parco Archeologico della Neapolis Orecchio di Dionisio (Ear of Dionysius) Teatro Greco Via del Teatro Greco, Siracusa SR 96100 Tel: (39) 0931 4508258 |
